NYC is for Music Lovers

Last week was a great week for us music lovers. On Tuesday, we saw Wilco and on Saturday we took a LES walking tour led by John "Bloodclot" Joseph of the Cro-Mags.

The Wilco show was part of Celebrate Brooklyn - a series of arts events taking place throughout the summer season. The Prospect Park Bandshell was an interesting venue - standing room on asphalt only unless you're VIP. We took our blanket and a picnic dinner, including wine illegally smuggled in in a water bottle, which, I guess, was kinda cheap of us. Oh well. If/when we go again, we probably won't take all of that stuff because as soon as the opening band started, everyone stood up & blankets were promptly trampled. It was a good lesson in what to do/not do next time.

While we were a little disappointed in Wilco's set list, (I realize I must be "old" because I don't love some of their new stuff) the show was still amazing. I'm happy to say that I didn't see any sorority girls bending each other over, slapping each other's asses to "Spiders (Kidsmoke)" like I did the last time we saw Wilco in Atlanta. The knotted rags hanging over the stage were strange, at first, but I loved how they ended up serving as the backdrop for various projected videos and images.

On Saturday, we snagged tickets to one of only two 2012 Lower East Side walking tours led by John Joseph of the Cro-Mags. We had heard about these tours and had been checking the website regularly in hopes of being able to book one, but in the end, it was the Cro-Mags' Facebook page that alerted us to this year's dates.

We met at the Cube at Astor Place to start the tour with heavy rain and storms in the forecast. John's buddy and well-known photographer Clayton Patterson was nice enough to join us and add his behind-the-lens view. We started with a bit of history of Astor Place, heavy on the drug culture that flourished in the area in the late 70s and early 80s, a theme that would persist throughout the three-hour tour. Then we headed down The Bowery. For some perspective, my dad, who was stationed in NJ in the mid 60s and spent many free weekends in NYC, was shocked to hear that we would even consider walking around anywhere near The Bowery, due to its reputation back in those days.

In Joseph's heyday in the late 70s/early 80s, it wasn't much better. Today, however, former "flop houses" have been replaced with multi-million dollar lofts. And one of The Bowery's most famous residences, CBGB, has literally been replaced by designer John Varvatos' store.

Former "Flop Houses" on The Bowery

Former CBGB - Now John Varvatos Store

We actually sought out and went into the John Varvatos store last year. We heard they preserved/maintained some of the old posters, fixtures and whatnot. I can attest, though, that it is sad. Unfortunately, I was never able to experience CBGB, but after seeing this store, I think I would prefer this memorabilia in a museum, rather than incorporated into an overpriced, designer boutique.

Sidenote: when we were standing in front of this store, two of the three Jonas Brothers walked by us. I only recognized them because they were together. I think if it had been either one on his own, I wouldn't have had a clue.

We continued on, seeing the CBGB alley and hearing stories about how the musicians used it to score drugs and shoot up. Also, people used the alley to try to sneak in the back door, which Hilly Kristal's wife had rigged so she'd be alerted. Today, the alley is spotlessly clean with art galleries, restaurants and an Avalon apartment complex. As we continued along, we heard stories of Puerto Rican gangs, Catholic priests who had John Joseph and other kids running drugs for them, shootouts, stabbings, squatting and more.

We learned about the Mosaic Man who tries to commemorate relevant landmarks, like the former Fillmore East where so many famous artists played in the late 60s and early 70s.

John Joseph Discussing the History of the Fillmore East

We saw the former recording studio (now burger joint) where Bad Brains recorded their first album and the Cro-Mags practiced in their early days.

When we walked by Webster Hall, John mentioned, "We were supposed to play a show there a couple weeks ago," and laughed off their now notorious almost-show where former band member Harley Flanagan sneaked in and stabbed a couple of current band members. Um, allegedly, of course.

We ended the tour at the location of the former Max's Kansas City, which is now a restaurant and condo development. According to John, they have some great pictures of the original venue on display and sometimes the super will let people in to see them. Unfortunately, we didn't get to go inside.

Former Max's Kansas City Location

Luckily, we only got a little rain and, all-in-all, it was a great way to spend a summer afternoon. John Joseph was an entertaining storyteller. I did wonder, though, how much he truly missed the old days. It is easy to see that progress has wiped out the community once so revered as the birthplace of American punk music - the birthplace of The Ramones, Talking Heads, Blondie and even the Beastie Boys. It's sad that, in the case of the LES, progress seems to have meant completely wiping the slate clean of the amazing musical history that put it on the map. But at the same time, I had to wonder how much one can truly mourn the loss of drug dealers on every corner, junkies ODing in alleys, gang shootings, dirty cops and riots in Tompkins Square Park. 

Upon completion of the tour, John Joseph made a point to talk with and shake each participant's hand. He autographed copies of his book, "Evolution of a Cro-Magnon" and took photos with anyone who asked. He even stopped along the tour route to pose for photos with fans.

Judging by the number of people who shouted a "Hey John" along the tour route, his stories about all the work he has done trying to help the homeless and the street kids in the neighborhood are true. He seems to be a known and loved fixture of the LES. His is the kind of story you love to hear - a former junkie, ex-con who has turned toward helping others, but who still has some great tales to tell.