NYC is for Music Lovers

Last week was a great week for us music lovers. On Tuesday, we saw Wilco and on Saturday we took a LES walking tour led by John "Bloodclot" Joseph of the Cro-Mags.

The Wilco show was part of Celebrate Brooklyn - a series of arts events taking place throughout the summer season. The Prospect Park Bandshell was an interesting venue - standing room on asphalt only unless you're VIP. We took our blanket and a picnic dinner, including wine illegally smuggled in in a water bottle, which, I guess, was kinda cheap of us. Oh well. If/when we go again, we probably won't take all of that stuff because as soon as the opening band started, everyone stood up & blankets were promptly trampled. It was a good lesson in what to do/not do next time.

While we were a little disappointed in Wilco's set list, (I realize I must be "old" because I don't love some of their new stuff) the show was still amazing. I'm happy to say that I didn't see any sorority girls bending each other over, slapping each other's asses to "Spiders (Kidsmoke)" like I did the last time we saw Wilco in Atlanta. The knotted rags hanging over the stage were strange, at first, but I loved how they ended up serving as the backdrop for various projected videos and images.

On Saturday, we snagged tickets to one of only two 2012 Lower East Side walking tours led by John Joseph of the Cro-Mags. We had heard about these tours and had been checking the website regularly in hopes of being able to book one, but in the end, it was the Cro-Mags' Facebook page that alerted us to this year's dates.

We met at the Cube at Astor Place to start the tour with heavy rain and storms in the forecast. John's buddy and well-known photographer Clayton Patterson was nice enough to join us and add his behind-the-lens view. We started with a bit of history of Astor Place, heavy on the drug culture that flourished in the area in the late 70s and early 80s, a theme that would persist throughout the three-hour tour. Then we headed down The Bowery. For some perspective, my dad, who was stationed in NJ in the mid 60s and spent many free weekends in NYC, was shocked to hear that we would even consider walking around anywhere near The Bowery, due to its reputation back in those days.

In Joseph's heyday in the late 70s/early 80s, it wasn't much better. Today, however, former "flop houses" have been replaced with multi-million dollar lofts. And one of The Bowery's most famous residences, CBGB, has literally been replaced by designer John Varvatos' store.

Former "Flop Houses" on The Bowery

Former CBGB - Now John Varvatos Store

We actually sought out and went into the John Varvatos store last year. We heard they preserved/maintained some of the old posters, fixtures and whatnot. I can attest, though, that it is sad. Unfortunately, I was never able to experience CBGB, but after seeing this store, I think I would prefer this memorabilia in a museum, rather than incorporated into an overpriced, designer boutique.

Sidenote: when we were standing in front of this store, two of the three Jonas Brothers walked by us. I only recognized them because they were together. I think if it had been either one on his own, I wouldn't have had a clue.

We continued on, seeing the CBGB alley and hearing stories about how the musicians used it to score drugs and shoot up. Also, people used the alley to try to sneak in the back door, which Hilly Kristal's wife had rigged so she'd be alerted. Today, the alley is spotlessly clean with art galleries, restaurants and an Avalon apartment complex. As we continued along, we heard stories of Puerto Rican gangs, Catholic priests who had John Joseph and other kids running drugs for them, shootouts, stabbings, squatting and more.

We learned about the Mosaic Man who tries to commemorate relevant landmarks, like the former Fillmore East where so many famous artists played in the late 60s and early 70s.

John Joseph Discussing the History of the Fillmore East

We saw the former recording studio (now burger joint) where Bad Brains recorded their first album and the Cro-Mags practiced in their early days.

When we walked by Webster Hall, John mentioned, "We were supposed to play a show there a couple weeks ago," and laughed off their now notorious almost-show where former band member Harley Flanagan sneaked in and stabbed a couple of current band members. Um, allegedly, of course.

We ended the tour at the location of the former Max's Kansas City, which is now a restaurant and condo development. According to John, they have some great pictures of the original venue on display and sometimes the super will let people in to see them. Unfortunately, we didn't get to go inside.

Former Max's Kansas City Location

Luckily, we only got a little rain and, all-in-all, it was a great way to spend a summer afternoon. John Joseph was an entertaining storyteller. I did wonder, though, how much he truly missed the old days. It is easy to see that progress has wiped out the community once so revered as the birthplace of American punk music - the birthplace of The Ramones, Talking Heads, Blondie and even the Beastie Boys. It's sad that, in the case of the LES, progress seems to have meant completely wiping the slate clean of the amazing musical history that put it on the map. But at the same time, I had to wonder how much one can truly mourn the loss of drug dealers on every corner, junkies ODing in alleys, gang shootings, dirty cops and riots in Tompkins Square Park. 

Upon completion of the tour, John Joseph made a point to talk with and shake each participant's hand. He autographed copies of his book, "Evolution of a Cro-Magnon" and took photos with anyone who asked. He even stopped along the tour route to pose for photos with fans.

Judging by the number of people who shouted a "Hey John" along the tour route, his stories about all the work he has done trying to help the homeless and the street kids in the neighborhood are true. He seems to be a known and loved fixture of the LES. His is the kind of story you love to hear - a former junkie, ex-con who has turned toward helping others, but who still has some great tales to tell. 

Summer So Far

I'm borrowing a bit from my friend Digital Cornflake here as I, too, have been neglecting my blog. It all started with my 10-day trip to Georgia for work and family time and was made worse by the fact that I've just been focusing on enjoying the summer, which means I haven't had a lot of free time to post.

That being said, I thought I'd give a quick recap of my first summer as a NY resident, now that we're just past the halfway point. In spite of record heat, I've been having a great time. I am a southern girl, after all, what's a little heat? Thankfully, here, there's always the promise of a pleasant, low-humidity day just around the corner, so that makes the heat a little easier to bear.

Anyway, right after I returned from my trip to Georgia, we spent a Saturday in Central Park to celebrate my friend Julie's birthday by watching the Central Park Dance Skaters. It sounds a bit odd, but it was a perfect way to spend a Saturday - blankets spread out under the trees, snacks, contraband booze and a group of people of all ages dancing on roller skates to mostly 70s disco and rap music. Of course, I forgot to make sure my camera battery was charged, so I was only able to get a few photos & one video. This was also my first introduction to "Miss Columbia."

For my birthday, my husband bought tickets to the Brooklyn Academy of Music's "Eat, Drink and Be Literary" event with author Denis Johnson. Reading his collection of short stories Jesus' Son in college is what made me want to be a writer. Interestingly, I found out at the event that he wrote that collection when he was 35 (my age now). I left feeling inspired to write again, but of course I haven't. Sigh.

Denis Johnson Autographing My Book - Woo!

We also went to the Pride Parade, which, I have to say was the most fun parade I've ever been to. Usually I find parades fairly boring, but this one was nonstop fun and I took a lot of pictures.

Finally, this past weekend, we took the LIRR out to the Babylon station and then took a bus out to Robert Moses State Park for a day at the beach. Perhaps it was because it was a cloudy day, but I was surprised how un-crowded it was. I mean, don't get me wrong, there were a lot of people there, but we didn't feel like we were right on top of everyone else, which was nice. The beach and water were clean, there was a reasonably priced snack bar, decent bathroom and lifeguards on duty. Plus, it's just amazing to be able to hop on a train and be at the beach in an hour.

Robert Moses State Park

Observations/Random Thoughts:

• I used to think the drips from window air conditioners was gross, but now I'm much more worried about having an air conditioner fall on me!
• My apartment ceiling is WAY too thin. Not only do I hear our upstairs neighbor stomping back and forth, back and forth, back and forth (what the hell are they doing?) at all hours of day and night, they're now insisting on torturing me by blasting that terrible Gotye song over and over during the day. 
• We're still looking for our Brooklyn replacement for The Shed at Glenwood - our "Cheers" - because sometimes you really DO just want to go where everybody knows your name. I'm starting to think it is irreplaceable.
• I saw a woman get onto the subway barefoot . . . in Coney Island of all places. I nearly threw up. Someone is just begging for flesh-eating bacteria.
• Our neighbors in the building behind us have been out of town (windows dark, shades down) for over 2 weeks. What kind of job do I need to get to be able to vacation for 2+ weeks?
• I mentioned this the other day on Facebook, but I've learned that NYC is about as stabby as Atlanta is shooty. I prefer the stabby. I don't have to worry about getting randomly stabbed while sitting on my couch watching TV.
• There are a lot of French Bulldogs in my neighborhood. I notice they always seem to be really pulling on their leash, which makes them even more grunty & snorty. And adorable.